Challenges and Changes to the Product Development Process for Fashion Omnichannel Retailers

Abstract This paper focuses on the relatively limited research activity for Fashion Product Development (FPD). This work aims to challenge the traditional FPD theoretical process model within existing academic literature and presents a revised version which is underpinned by the concept of “robust management” derived from the New Product Development (NPD) literature and industry discussion. This new theoretical process model is a more accurate reflection of current practice within the fashion industry. The development of this research is influenced by critically investigating the product development process used by high street omnichannel retailers that develop “own label” fashion clothing, and which distribute products through high street stores and online sales channels as well as having integrated or overlapping service domains. The research examines the process inputs and outputs as well as the planning and management of the process overall and in so doing intends to capture the holistic nature of current industry FPD for omnichannel retailers. The empirical research proceeded using a qualitative approach using semi structured indepth interviews conducted with key informants from market leading retailers. The major findings of the research indicate that a new theoretical contribution to the academic literature field of FPD may be appropriate. The work illustrates the current product development process, documenting the challenges, changes and solutions that have influenced it, specific to omnichannel retailers, whilst identifying the links and parallels from NPD process model structures. This research explores the necessity of product development theoretical models that are specific to business and retail types within the fashion industry and contributes to the nascent theory that has a specific focus on fashion product development.


Introduction
Within the Fashion Product Development (FPD) literature there has been limited discussion of how external factors impact the product development process.The research that exists is in context of the contemporary retail environment of a particular time, spanning from the early 1990s to early 2000s.Retailing has moved on since the Millennium, research investigation is therefore justified in order to truly understand how the commercial and consumer environments have had an impact on business practice and what are the implications for the theoretical process models.In the last decade, many of these challenging and changing factors in the external environment have been well documented and researched.For example: areas such as changing consumer behaviour and more sophisticated consumer demands (Barnes and Lea-Greenwood 2010; Bruce and Daly 2006;Christopher, Lowson, and Peck 2004), influences of technologies and digital platforms (Arribas and Alfaro 2018;Silva, Hassani, and Madsen 2019;Sun and Zhao 2018), flexible, agile and extended manufacturing methods (Banica and Hagiu 2016;Braglia et al. 2021;Camargo, Pereira, and Scarpin 2020;Tyler, Heeley, and Bhamra 2006) and responsible sustainability processes (Fung et al. 2021;Goworek and Oxborrow 2018;Lion et al. 2016;McLaren and Goworek 2017;Mukendi et al. 2020).All of these examples suggest contributing factors to the changes and challenges for the fashion industry.It is important that research and the development of theoretical process models in the literature reflect this phenomenon.
FPD is the core process activity for all retailers that specialize in apparel products.It is the procedure that takes products from "fashion ideas" right through from conception, to production, distribution, and sale of "fashion products."It embodies the strategic planning of products using the key areas of creative, technical, production, and distribution (Keiser and Garner 2012).The day-to-day key activities, responsibilities, structures, and tasks for multidisciplinary teams across all types of fashion retailers form the basis of this process and many external and internal factors are involved.These knowledge-intensive tasks need to be continually revisited, updated and improved in order to protect and enhance a business's competitive advantage (d 'Avolio, Bandinelli, and Rinaldi 2015).Traditionally, FPD literature reflected an industry where retailers were predominantly focused on High Street stores with some multi-channel experiences such as catalogues and early, but limited, ecommerce stores.In the last twenty years fashion retailers have gained a much wider variety of different and innovative ways to sell products to consumers.These include engaging and interactive online stores with consumer support and dialogue mechanisms; brochures and catalogues that link to the digital channels; mobile phone and tablet apps; social media platforms with direct links to ecommerce; and physical stores with digital enhancements that provide an exciting and immersive omnichannel experience for consumers.
Over the last decade we have also seen changes in consumers.In particular, consumers demand products that reflect the latest trends and are available to immediately buy.This is often referred to as "see now, buy now", a business model that makes fashion items instantly available for customers to purchase after the collection is presented for the first time (Boardman et al. 2020).These aspects, coupled with the motive to decrease lead times, are changing how retailers traditionally worked within the FPD process (Parker-Strak et al. 2020).Fashion has become increasingly instant and multi-seasonal: product assortment ranges were previously timed and heavily influenced by climate and season, but we are now witnessing the proliferation of ranges over the course of a year (Lorenzo-Romero, Encarnaci on Andr es-Mart ınez, and Antonio Mond ejar-Jim enez 2020).Since there are more styles for each business, more product assortments, and more and more diverse target markets, the level and complexity of activity in FPD has been steadily increasing (Wu andWu 2011, Parker-Strak et al. 2020).These changes and challenges have both provided a positive and negative impact on business for fashion retailers.It is clear, therefore, that there is a need to evaluate how they have influenced the core activity of the fashion value chain, i.e. the FPD process.
In order to guarantee success in business, which involves delivering a commercially viable product, while adhering to the limitations of time, cost, and trends, a business will constantly assess, modify, and test its processes to enhance their efficiency and effectiveness.Constantly reevaluating the strategy and tactics of product development is deemed to be crucial for creating more "on-point" products (Lanarolle, Seram, and Nanayakkara 2016).As business objectives and formats evolve to deal with the everchanging environments and circumstances, it would be expected that the processes and procedures used by the business may show similar evolution.Fashion retailers are recognized as a range of diverse types and formats with specific objectives that cater for specific slices of the market.This range of formats for businesses will impact the types of activities, people, tasks, and procedures that form the FPD process.This research challenges the traditional FPD process models and presents a more accurate reflection of how FPD is undertaken within a context in which the retail type is given more attention and considering some of the ideas presented in recent FPD literature.

Omnichannel Retailers Literature
When formulating the development process, it is appropriate to consider the formats and environments in which fashion products are sold, as these factors have a significant impact on the strategic and operating decisions of retailers.The formats and environments of the fashion industry can greatly influence the development and execution of business.Although the selling activity is typically viewed as the final stage in the fashion product process and is not traditionally considered part of the development phase, it is evident that the intended retail target segments and selling environments can significantly impact the product development process.Specific business objectives, space requirements, lead times for selling, and several other factors have to be taken into account during the development phase.Many fashion retailers are now using an omnichannel strategy, which means rather than using each channel separately or individually as in multi-channel retail, there is simultaneous use of multiple channels (McCormick et al. 2014).The concept of omnichannel retailing is geared towards serving customers when and how they want (Lynch and Barnes 2020).Furthermore, research by Sopadjieva, Dholakia and Benjamin (2017) highlights the growth in cross-channel retailing not only as a way of targeting new consumer groups, but also (and more often) providing an array of access to retailer options for the same customer.In short, these researchers suggest that 73% of customers shopped across physical and digital channels, i.e. that the majority of customers are omnichannel in their orientation and behaviours.It is, therefore, appropriate that this current study focuses upon omnichannel fashion retailers.Channels can make use of either offline physical locations that are used to meet final users, such as directly operated stores, multi-brand and department stores and pick-up points, or online channels that rely on digital technologies to sell products and interact with clients such as e-commerce platforms, mobile applications and social networks (Cabigiosu 2020).The omnichannel strategy generally requires a combination of standardized inventory of products available both on offline and online shops and specific products sold only via specific channels, often to attract more visits and increase the number of purchases (Cabigiosu 2020).This approach continues to be a major challenge, integrating the inventory of different channels and sharing data in real-time is problematic for retailers and requires sophisticated infrastructures and management systems (Silva, Duarte, and Sundetova 2020).Complex and challenging to manage and monitor, and with the added influential factors of fashion trends and unpredictable consumer demand, fashion omnichannel retailers have incentives to consider where they can streamline and modify processes to achieve business objectives.Highlighting the need to rethink the traditional product development process (Gallino and Rooderkerk 2020), it is crucial to understand the specific nature of retail channels and how this shapes the product development process and supply chain management.This will fundamentally influence the speed, time, and methods of manufacturing in the first instance, but also then further implicates the very early stages of the fashion product development process and how retailers are reactive to development of new products whilst trading.This specific research is absent from the current literature and is the key driver for this study.A common feature of the fashion omnichannel retailers participating in the empirical research is the development of "own label" products, which are defined as products that are brought to market under the direction and control of one business.The retailer participates in the FPD process from the initial idea stage and right through to manufacturing and final sale.This own label model is predominant in the UK industry today.
Own label products are owned and prioritized by fashion retailers during the product development process (Parker-Strak et al. 2020) and generally developed exclusively to meet minimum production quantities and offset the high overheads of new product development (Goworek 2014).Retailers have come to recognize these products are significant contributors to market positioning, differentiation, and the fostering of consumer loyalty (Genessa, Jones, and Cassill 2006).It is important to focus on this because of the complexities and challenges within the process time frames, the multi-disciplinary nature and retailer objectives that impact the FPD process.As consumers have become more demanding, retailers have become more focused and taken greater control over the product development process internally.Delivering specifically styled products at a rapid speed and specific price point requires ownership of the creative process of a product and this, therefore, makes "own label products" the priority for retailers (Goworek and McGoldrick 2015;Parker-Strak et al. 2020).
As own label product development has become more common, it has increased and enhanced retailers' in-house resources, making them highly extensive and skilled.It has also generated a demand for creative skillsets that are challenging the traditional fashion product development business model where previously the creative elements were the responsibility of the supplier (Goworek 2010;Grose 2012;Parker-Strak et al. 2020).This form of FPD involves an extended (involving more activities to be carried out during the buying process) and more complex (referring to extensivity, internal and vertical integration) buying process with a deeper relationship between buyer and supplier (Johansson 2001).The complexities of own label product development significantly lengthens the lead-times of the process.This longer-term view contrasts with the increasing number of shortterm pressures on the sector.The industry is trying to react to short product lifecycles, unpredictable consumer demands and constantly changing trends and consumer tastes at the same time as getting involved with product development that may take weeks or months to arrive in the marketplace.Clearly, the management and development of the FPD process is crucial to the achievement and success of getting the right products at the right price at the right time and at the right price for consumerswhilst still achieving reasonable commercial returns (Parker-Strak et al. 2020).
The product development process utilised by omnichannel fashion retailers is a complex balancing act.It requires a high level of multidisciplinary collaboration among teams working through creative processes, particularly for the development of "own label" products.The "own label" product development process is a more extensive and complex buying process and can be challenging due to the additional influences from multiple integrated retail points and the impact of digital technologies, all against the backdrop of ever-changing fashion influences/trends and unpredictable consumer demand.
The complexities of the process can command more time, and failure to react to short product lifecycles and constantly changing trends can result in lost sales and reduced margins.Overall, the fashion product development process used by omnichannel retailers is likely to be distinct and requires a strategic approach to achieve success in a highly competitive industry.This research critically investigates product development in the context of high street omnichannel retailers who are developing "own label" fashion clothing.With a focus upon inputs, outputs, planning and management to comprehensively map the interplay of people, processes, and the procedures of the product development process.

Product Development Literature
While there is a substantial body of literature that examines the purpose and process of product development, research in the area of fashion product development is both relatively limited and dated (Silva and Rupasinghe 2016).With respect to the latter, the literature is probably not reflecting recent changes in the fashion retail ecosystem and the dominant contemporary channel formats.This research addresses both of these issues by adding to the overarching cannon of fashion product development literature and does so by examining a contemporary, specific, and highly relevant retail format.
There are relatively few theoretical models that examine the FPD process (Carr and Pomeroy 1992;Gaskill 1992;Lamb and Kallal 1992;Lea Wickett, Gaskill, and Damhorst 1999;May-Plumlee and Little 1998;Pitimaneeyakul, Labat, and Delong 2004;Silva and Rupasinghe 2018;Wu and Wu 2011).The purpose of this study is to establish the extent to which the fashion product development theoretical process models identified in previous research are relevant and appropriate for contemporary omnichannel fashion retailers.
The FPD process is traditionally identified and discussed as a linear, stage gate procedure as illustrated in Figure 1.Stage gate process models are described as both conceptual and operational for moving a new product from idea to launch, illustrating a process that consists of a series of defined stages where essential activities are conducted.
The FPD process model whilst specific and unique to the apparel industry draws parallels with generic product development theory and research that we see in the NPD field (Parker-Strak et al. 2020) illustrated within Table 1.
Whilst this theoretical model suggests a simplified, step-by-step approach, empirical research notes the complexities of the process in practice.The process of developing products consists of setting up of various functional areas, handling of a large flow of information, juggling with multiple requirements and the involvement of a considerable number of people.Maintaining an effective interrelationship among these elements will require the necessary coordination to better manage the process to create products (Lanarolle, Seram, and Nanayakkara 2016).The process may be viewed as a system of decisions that influence each other in a complex way (McCarthy et al. 2006), and is characterized by functional independence with each participant contributing to the process sequentially (Tyler, Heeley, and Bhamra 2006).Thus there is a requirement for a more sophisticated new product development process model for fashion businesses and this may evolve with the help of detailed empirical studies (Silva and Rupasinghe 2016).The theoretical models that have been captured in previous research are conceptually correct but are not necessarily linked to the product development process seen in the commercial environment.There are gaps within the literature such as: retailer format impact; variation of product types and categories; and the variety of fashion product development processes being used.With this in mind the purpose of this research is to investigate the industry practice of FPD and compare to the conceptual models within previous research and update and amend the process models.In this way the theoretical view of FPD can more accurately reflect current in industry practice.There has been some recent research that explores the FPD as a circular process with central overarching activities for pure play fast fashion retailers (Parker-Strak et al. 2020).A pure play fashion retailer exclusively sells its products through digital or online channels, without operating physical brick-andmortar stores, and rely on their online presence to reach customers and drive sales.Parker-Strak et al. (2020) presents research that focuses on the product development industry practice for a specific type of fashion retailer, confirming that a retailer's sales outlets do have a significant impact upon the FPD process.It also presents the product development model as a circular format rather than linear as seen in previous research.This investigation will explore omnichannel retailer's product development industry practice, compare this against the original theoretical models and the circular process model seen within pure play retailers, and present a product development process model specific to omnichannel fashion retailers.It is hoped that these findings will contribute to the theoretical knowledge and commercial understanding within this specific field of fashion product development.
The research will use the most established sequential theoretical models of FPD, such as the Apparel Product Development Process (APDP) model (Moretti and Braghini Junior 2017) -Strak et al. 2020), in order to inform existing knowledge and the basis for the study.These models were selected as they are the most current, innovative or cited as most detailed with the systematic literature review (Silva and Rupasinghe 2018).Table 2 compares the differences within these theoretical models, explaining why they are considered to be a useful basis for this investigation.This research aims to challenge the traditional FPD process models identified and compare them with the new circular model.In addition, it will more accurately illustrate the decision processes occurring within omnichannel fashion retailers.The new process model will also consider the latest ideas proposed in some of the latest FPD literature regarding speed, lead-times, and disruptions.An exploration of the process with a more robust management theory underpinning derived from outside the fashion sector will also be considered to underpin this study.NPD research and theoretical models (Hart and Baker 1994;Mahajan and Wind 1988;Trott 2008;Vojak et al. 2010) that have some similarities with FPD are of interest.As described in Table 1, the differences within the more established NPD research such as alternative format for model layout and the lines of communications, as well as the ability to progress through the stages of the process in a non-linear way will be a critical part of the analysis.A new process model that is specifically focused on omnichannel fashion retailers will be a new contribution to the research field of fashion product development and therefore significant in building knowledge in the area.

Methodology
This research is focused on understanding the "insider's perspective" of the fashion product development process and an "in depth" understanding of attitudes, behaviour and motivations of the participants within it (Antwi and Kasim 2015;Barnham 2015).An insider's view of product development offers the chance to obtain an accurate reflection of the process in its entirety and the challenges faced by omnichannel fashion retailers.In this research, data was collected via individual semi structured in-depth interviews of approximately 30 -60 min each.Overall, 6 h and 20 min of interviews were conducted with the selected "insiders" -Fashion Buyers at various levels from assistant level to more senior roles.It was important that the sample chosen had a perspective and connection to all the stages within the FPD process, therefore buyers rather than designers, garment technologist or merchandisers were used as participants.Buyers in a fashion retail business are involved with the main decision-making within product development from concept of idea through manufacturing, distribution, and sale of the fashion products.Therefore, they are a true insider to the process in its entirety and are arguably bridging the gap between operations and strategy (Bruce and Daly 2007).A snowball sampling method was used to find the research participants, they were then selected for interview because of their experience and knowledge within, and of, the FPD process for their specific retailer, maintaining accuracy, contextualization, impartiality, and honest discussions.Snowball sampling is a non-probability sampling method where existing study participants are asked to refer other potential participants.This approach is useful when studying hard-to-reach populations or sensitive topics (Biernacli and Waldorf 1981).However, it has limitations, such as its potential for biased participant selection (Salganik and Heckathorn 2004).The interviews took place within the workplaces or online, with the participants selected from eight omnichannel fashion retailers that had either UK or European Head Office locations; detailed in Table 3.The eight omnichannel retailers were specifically chosen to give an overview of this market sector, with consideration to their retail outlet portfolios and omnichannel activities.The participants were selected based on market operations that had similar consumer and comparable product assortments.It should be noted that the data collection spanned two years, from 2019 to 2021, which coincided with a period of rapid change in the retail industry impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic.As a result, many retailers had to swiftly adjust their distribution strategies, such as shifting from omnichannel to online only for a short period of time.Whilst this raised a concern that this change of business operations could have impacted the product development process, it was established this was not the case.Any specific disruptions that were linked to the pandemic were focused within other areas of the business in the first instance.
It was also important that the sample ensured that saturation could be established with a rich dataset.Data saturation embodies the concept that once saturation is reached in a sample, the results will be capable of some degree of generalisation (Boddy 2016).Data saturation is achieved when the collection and analysis of new data no longer yields any additional information or themes.This process involves continual comparison and categorisation of data until no new insights emerge (Guest, Bunce, and Johnson 2006).It is a key factor in determining sample size and ensuring data quality (O'Reilly and Parker 2012).
The questions addressed are categorised into six specific themes as illustrated in Table 4 These themes supported the organic discussions What are the daily issues that cause problems for the FPD process from your perspective?What are the bigger issues that impact the process in your business?Do you think that these issues are specific to your business alone or industry wide problems?Solutions Are there any specific technological solutions that support issues with time and speed?Do you use data analysis resources to aid with the process?How do you find the usability of the resource and the analysis for decision making?Time and Speed On average how quickly or slowly does it take for a product to go from idea to manufacturing?Are there particular areas that need more time than other and create delays in the process?Are there any aspects that could be done simultaneously to save time? that took place in a structured format and clarified the key areas identified in the literature reviewed.This was acknowledged and allowed for free-flowing discussions to take place.Examples of questions used in the interviews are shown in Table 4.
Thematic analysis involves coding and analysing qualitative data to identify patterns, themes, and concepts.This process involves familiarisation, coding, theme development, and refinement, with the aim of capturing the essence of the data (Braun and Clarke 2006).This provided a useful starting point to understand the FPD process within omnichannel fashion retailers.Analysis was conducted with the aid of NVivo software, as it facilitates coding, categorising, and analysing qualitative data, increasing the efficiency and rigor of the analysis process (Bazeley and Jackson 2013).Effective analysis uses data to build a comprehensive, contextualised, and integrated understanding of what has been found, with an argument drawn across the data that establishes the conclusions drawn (Bazeley 2013).It was evident that the data collection reached saturation from the identified themes that emerged and repeated information shared.Member checking was used as a method of ensuring the reliability of qualitative research findings by inviting participants to review and comment on the data or analysis.This process helps to validate the findings, identify any inaccuracies, and enhance the credibility of the research and therefore establish the dependability, confirmability, and transferability of the research findings (Lincoln and Guba 1985;Morse et al. 2002).

Findings
The major finding of the interview process is that the product development process used by fashion omnichannel retailers is much more complex than previously explored in FPD literature.There are significant factors and considerations that influence how fashion products are developed successfully and effectively.These influential factors are having an impact on the format of the process model, as well as the iteration and content.The findings of this research support the theoretical view which presents a more appropriate process model that is specific to these types of retailers.It also identifies links and parallels from NPD process model structures.This research supports the view that product development theoretical models are specific to business and retail types within the fashion industry.This is a contribution to the theory, specifically on fashion product development.

Variations of FPD process
During discussions with the participants, it was established that there are two versions of FPD processes being used to mitigate against issues with speed and time, as well as reducing costs and efforts.Interviewees described the need for different processes relevant to support and manage the large volumes needed for omnichannel retailing.These product orders Challenges and Changes to the Product Development Process for Fashion Omnichannel Retailers need long lead-times with overseas suppliers to deliver a product that is affordable for the business and consumer.It was also evident from the findings that there is a need for a process that allows for reactive responses to consumer, competitor and trend changes that occur once trading has begun.This reactive form of FPD has much shorter leadtimes, smaller volumes and uses a supplier that is able to deliver products faster due to geographical distance or faster logistics.Interviewee C specifically addressed how it was vital to use different pathways within the process depending on the type of product and lead-times that dictate and control the process and decision-making, confirming that there is not a one-sizefits-all product development process for all fashion products.Product development process models must be adaptable for developing: product lines, individual products, seasonal lines, specific new products, adapted products, and modifying existing products (May-Plumlee and Little 1998) "You have different various products; some have a more design led traditional process, then adaption and then more see now buy now.A combination of the three types of Fashion Product Development process" (C) To expand on this statement and clarify interviewee C's terminology used, these can be established as: 1. Design led products using a traditional process and a long lead time, the products go through all the stages of the process.2. Adapted products that are developments of existing products proven bestselling products or repeated trends with significant changes such as fabric, colour and style details, but the basic style and fit will stay the same.They enter the process at the later stages of sampling, skipping the early part of the FPD process and therefore have much shorter lead-times.3. See now, buy now products that are items that are initially developed by the supplier with very minor adaptions made by the retailer during the ordering process, these developments enter the process again at sampling for one iteration, but generally go straight to the manufacturing stages and are delivered in very short lead-times and small volumes.
Depending on the type of product and its classification within the range itself or the business overall, different product development processes are being used in a more strategic way.Categorisation is a much faster and more precise decision-making system for the organization of the product development process.This suggests that not all products need to go through the full process.This represents a new understanding of omnichannel retailing fashion product development.Furthermore, the research highlights that product category influences supplier choice, maximum and minimum lead-times and necessary stages of the FPD process (Parker-Strak et al. 2020).There are vital elements to the product development process for fashion products in order that organisation, management, and transition through the process are operating in the most efficient and effective manner.
Comments from interviewees E and B further indicate that using the product classification methods and considering the timeframes and leadtimes during the process, there now seems to be proactive and reactive forms of product development.This has not been addressed previously with FPD literature and is a specific contribution from this research.
"Depending on the product classification it will determine the product development process" (E) "Two types of ways of developing product to make sure you maximize potential sales" (B) The design led products follow the proactive method, as previously identified, products that need longer lead times, overseas manufacturing, and larger volumes.Using a more traditional approach of a stage gate process that we have seen in models such as No-Interval Coherently Phased Product Development model (NICPPD)(May-Plumlee and Little 1998) or the Apparel Product Development Process (APDP) (Moretti and Braghini Junior 2017).This method needs a substantial time frame to move successfully through the process.Especially as the products are moving through each of the stages.
As the business starts to trade, according to the findings of this research, it appears that a more reactive product development process is being used to minimize lead-times, stages, costs, and which drives the efforts required to achieve business objectives, meet expectations of consumers, and deal with competitors.Whilst the process follows the same sequential stages, within the reactive version, how and where the products enter the model will vary.This is much more reflective of the Theoretical Model for Fashion Product Development Process (FPDP) for pure play fast fashion retailers (Parker-Strak et al. 2020).

Process model format
It is also established that the process model format is appropriate for omnichannel retailer's product development.The research and review stage are central and ongoing within all phases of the product development rather than at the beginning of the process.These stages are, therefore, influential to all products regardless of where they are within the cycle.This finding is another new contribution.
It also became clear from the interviews that, even though the traditional stage gate process is being used it is not necessarily the sequential process that is implied by previous academic research.
Challenges and Changes to the Product Development Process for Fashion Omnichannel Retailers "This process is an umbrella theme, let's just say, the products move or are managed accordingly, either forwards and backwards or backwards quite a bit or removed.or moved forwards quite quickly.So, the speed at which the products are moving through the direction is managed, by the different teams or the different people that are involved."(G) "Backwards and forward a lot, you can be in one stage with one product and in another with another product, but they are going to end up in the same collection, so it's very much back and forward, a collection very much takes a forward direction, but each design very much takes its own path and may be at different stages of it" (A) How products move through the process varies and changes due to many internal and external impacting factors changing the sequence from a stage gate, step by step process to much more fluid, organic and fluctuating method.During the interviews, it was established that communication was critical to the success and failures of the FPD process for omnichannel retailers.Internal and external players such as design, studio, suppliers and ecommerce, impact and influence the process at different points.Collaboration and partnership are vital to the success of the FPD process.
"Really well-established relationships that really helped process and speed things up" (G) "Build really strong relationship with suppliers and that way, you're a lot more confident and trust that the garments you will get through are going to be right first-time round."(C) Interviewee C and G discussed this in detail, addressing the advantages to clear communications and working in partnership and collaborations with others.This strategy, whilst taking time and effort to invest, had positive outcomes for the FPD process.Challenges within communication is an established concern within the FPD literature.Some of the inefficiencies of the product development process emerge, often as a result of communication problems (d 'Avolio, Bandinelli, and Rinaldi 2015).Being proactive and working towards solutions within communication and partnership aids the management of the FPD process and eliminates some of the ongoing challenges that plague the process.This new dynamic brings a "pull" perspective to a traditionally "push" driven process (Gallino and Rooderkerk 2020).
FPD process models need to show the lines of communication and the options of how products can move through the procedure to accurately reflect industry practice.They need, therefore, to be more reflective of the NPD models of Network Model (Trott 2008) Multiple Convergent Model (Crawford 1990) Evaluation Model (Mahajan and Wind 1988) and Hourglass Model of Innovation (Vojak et al. 2010) where communication lines, product movement and skipping stages are more visible.
As mentioned in previous discussions, it was established that the research and review stage that takes place at the very beginning of the FPD process is in fact a continuous stage that is happening non-stop throughout the process.
"The research and the review and the planning part, is something that is always happening because you have to because of how fast everything moves" (G) This stage mitigates and supports the decision making within the process and thus facilitates movement from stage to stage.It also enables the reactive form of product development to be triggered as a reaction to discussions, reviews and monitoring of retail sales, consumer and competitor demands and market influence.This finding is significantly different from previous literature in which this stage is always shown at the beginning of the process and not something that continually occurs and is now central to the entire process.
"We are more looking at sales and what's selling well this would be a constant, something that's happening all the time … .it is central to what is happening, a continuous process that does not start of finish."(A) From the discussion it is also clear that the stage is influential to all stages of the process instead of just impacting the initial parts of the stage gate style model.It appears that this continuous stage is a crucial and central element to the process.
"Basically, range reviewing, and research and planning is continuous sort of cycle … that is always happening, and influencing a lot of the different sort of products that are in the different stages of development, some maybe in sampling, some may be in very early conceptual phases, some may be nearing finalization."(B)

Product development process model for fashion omnichannel retailers
The FPD process has apparently become more circular with a fluid flow of information and communication allowing the products to move in different directions through the process as required (Parker-Strak et al. 2020).A more flexible and agile process of product development can be considered as a new way to manage and conduct the FPD process for omnichannel fashion retailers.Therefore, the FPD process we are seeing This new process model: Is a circular rather than linear format -therefore the movement is organic, iterative, and fluid, Allows products to enter at any point and continue in any direction, Has lines of communication connecting stages and enabling free flow of information, Research, Review and Planning stage is central and influential to all products and stages and enables proactive and reactive product development.
The circular process model has a central stage which identifies the product category.It then filters the products into the appropriate development stages as the product continues its journey through the process.The Research Review and Planning stage is also central and encompasses the entire process, illustrated as a necessary activity that is continuous, flexible, and impacting all product development decisions.This is This new model of product development for omnichannel retailers indicates that the process used in industry is not a sequential or linear process as previously documented in research but much more agile, flexible, and iterative in order to meet the challenges of developing appropriate products in a continuous cycle.Just as we have seen in pureplay fast fashion product development, a process model that enables changes can be applied when necessary.Authority is enabled and decision making is not delayed.Time, speed and cost are the main drivers and of business performance and are essential for all aspects within the process (Parker-Strak et al. 2020).

Conclusion
This research is specifically focused on the fashion product development process for omnichannel fashion retailers and has established a new contribution to knowledge not previously addressed in the published FPD literature.A new product development process model that is specifically for fashion omnichannel retailers has been identified and postulated.There are some distinct characteristics of the model that are a new contribution to current FPD literature.Initial product categorisation of all product ideas prior to participating in the process to support effective product development process.A circular process format, which allows for fluid and organic movement and communication in all directions.Central stage of research, review, and planning that is continuous and influences all decisions and activities within the process.
It appears that omnichannel fashion retailers have significantly amended and modified the development process to suit their business model and the specific challenges they face.In response to the changing omnichannel environment, retailers have started to adapt their new product development process in order to reflect this.The changes are driven by a desire to innovate faster and better service for omnichannel customers (Gallino and Rooderkerk 2020).
Previously there was no differentiation between the different types of retailers, their market share and type of business, volume of product, and methods of retailing when discussing the fashion product development process (Parker-Strak et al. 2020).Omnichannel retailers are using product classification at the applicable time to streamline the FPD process and utilize only the appropriate stages as required.A process that uses a continuous stream of ideas, information and decision making within the Research, Review and Planning stage addresses the challenging time Challenges and Changes to the Product Development Process for Fashion Omnichannel Retailers scales, short product life cycles, and unpredictable nature of the industry.The key observation is that the FPD for omnichannel retailers is a continuous cycle of overlapping activities that are influenced by internal and external players.Using communications and collaborations to aid the smooth and rapid transition through the FPD process is also a key observation.Ownership and management of these aspects can support and streamline the FPD process further.Successful management of an efficient and effective product development process within a challenging and changing retail environment is crucial to achieving business objectives and overcoming the unique demands of the fashion industry when trying to develop the right product at the right time at the right price.
There are several ways that practitioners can implement product categorization within their business and improve their product development process: Define clear product categories: Before formalizing the product categorization process, it is essential to define clear product categories.This will help to ensure that each product is assigned to the appropriate category and the correct development process is followed.Develop a standard process for each category: Once the product categories have been defined, practitioners should develop a standard process for each category.This process should include specific steps, timelines, and deliverables that are required for each product category.Establish clear communication channels: Communication is critical for successful product development.Practitioners should establish clear communication channels with all stakeholders involved in the process to ensure that all are up to date and has access to the information needed.Encourage collaboration and feedback: Collaboration and feedback are essential for successful product development.Practitioners should encourage collaboration amongst and between internal and external stakeholders and actively seek feedback throughout the development process to ensure that all perspectives are considered.Continuously evaluate and improve the process: The product development process should be continuously evaluated and improved to ensure that it remains effective and efficient.
While this current research provides valuable insights, there may be limitations that need to be addressed before the findings can be applied to a wider context.One limitation is that there may be cultural and geographical differences that affect product development processes, which may not have been fully explored.Further research would enable a more comprehensive investigation of these factors and how they impact product development in different regions and sub-regions of the world.Also, investigating other stakeholders involved in the product development process, including suppliers, manufacturers, and customers might be useful.These stakeholders may have unique perspectives and insights that could inform the development process, and further research would allow for their input to be fully considered.In summary, while this current research provides valuable insights into product development for omnichannel retailers from a UK perspective, a larger study would enable a more comprehensive investigation of the factors that impact product development in a wider global environment.This would help to ensure that the findings can be applied more broadly and provide a more thorough understanding of the product development process in different regions of the world.
Future recommendations for this research would also include a need to investigate further management theories that could support the product development process.As addressed, this research focuses entirely on omnichannel fashion retailers however there may be relevance for other industries and formats that share the same characteristics in relation to the flexibility needed when managing product development and linked processes.

Disclosure Statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Figure 1
Figure 1Authors' example of a stage gate process model.
Challenges and Changes to the Product Development Process for Fashion Omnichannel Retailers in industry within the omnichannel retailer format is more reflective of the Theoretical Model for Fashion Product Development Process (FPDP) (Parker-Strak et al. 2020).Figure 2 illustrates how these findings are used to produce a new theoretical model of Product Development Process (PDP) for fashion omnichannel retailers.

Figure 2
Figure 2 Product Development Process (PDP) for fashion omnichannel retailers.

Table 1 .
and No-Interval Coherently Phased Product Development model for apparel (NICPPD) (May-Plumlee and Little 1998) and the recent more circular model for pureplay fast Similarities and differences between FPD and NPD.

Table 2 .
Overview of the three models used for investigation.Challenges and Changes to the Product Development Process for Fashion Omnichannel Retailers

Table 3 .
Breakdown of sample taken between 2019 and 2021Challenges and Changes to the Product Development Process for Fashion Omnichannel Retailers

Table 4 .
The six question themes identified during the development of questions.