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This article examines the symbolic whiteness associated with pumpkins in the contemporary United States. Starbucks’ pumpkin spice latte, a widely circulated essay in McSweeney’s on “Decorative Gourd Season,” pumpkins in aspirational lifestyle magazines, and the reality television show Punkin Chunkin provide entry points into whiteness–pumpkin connections. Such analysis illuminates how class, gender, place, and especially race are employed in popular media and marketing of food and flavor; it suggests complicated interplay among food, leisure, labor, nostalgia, and race. Pumpkins in popular culture also reveal contemporary racial and class coding of rural versus urban places. Accumulation of critical, relational, and contextual analyses, including things seemingly as innocuous as pumpkins, points the way to a food studies of humanities and geography. When considered vis-à-vis violence and activism that incorporated pumpkins, these analyses point toward the perils of equating pumpkins and whiteness.

本文检视美国当代与南瓜有关的象徵白人性。星巴克的南瓜香料拿铁,麦史云尼(McSweeney)广为流传的文章〈装饰南瓜季节〉,渴望的生活风格杂志中的南瓜,以及“投掷南瓜”的实境电视秀,提供了白人性—南瓜连结的切入点。此般分析,描绘阶级、性别、地方,特别是种族如何在大众媒体与食物和味觉行销中被使用;本文指出食物、休閒、劳动、怀旧和种族之间的复杂互动。大众文化中的南瓜,同时揭露了“乡村相对于城市”地方的当代种族与阶级识别。累积批判的、关係性与脉络化的分析,包含如同南瓜一般天真无害的事物,指向人性与地理的食物研究。当面对面考量纳入南瓜的暴力与行动主义时,这些分析指向了将南瓜等同于白人性的危险性。

Este artículo examina la blancura simbólica asociada con las calabazas en los Estados Unidos contemporáneos. El latte de calabaza con especias de Starbucks, un ensayo ampliamente circulado en McSweeney sobre la “Estación del Calabacín Decorativo”, las calabazas de los magazines de estilos de vida con aspiraciones, y el programa de televisión de estilo reality denominado Punkin Chunkin, proporcionan los puntos de entrada a las conexiones calabaza-blancura. Tal análisis ilumina cómo la clase, el género, el lugar y especialmente la raza son empleados en los medios populares y en el mercadeo de comida y sabor; ese análisis sugiere un complicado intercambio entre comida, ocio, trabajo, nostalgia y raza. En la cultura popular las calabazas también revelan las codificaciones contemporáneas de raza y clase que enfrentan los lugares rurales contra los urbanos. La acumulación de análisis críticos, relacionales y contextuales, que incluyen cosas tan aparentemente inocuas como las calabazas, marcan el camino hacia estudios de los alimentos en las humanidades y en geografía. Al observar violencia y activismo incorporando calabazas juntos, tales análisis apuntan a los riesgos de equiparar calabazas y blancura.

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Notes on contributors

Lisa Jordan Powell

LISA JORDAN POWELL is a postdoctoral fellow appointed jointly in the Institute for Resources, Environment, and Sustainability at the University of British Columbia, Vancouver, BC, V6T 1Z4, Canada; and the Department of Geography at the University of the Fraser Valley, Abbotsford, BC, V2S 7M7, Canada. E-mail: . Her research interests include agriculture, food, resource extraction, and agriburbia, particularly in the contexts of landscape, rural studies, and environmental history.

Elizabeth S. D. Engelhardt

ELIZABETH S. D. ENGELHARDT is the John Shelton Reed Distinguished Professor of Southern Studies in the Department of American Studies at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Chapel Hill, NC 27599–3520. E-mail: . Her interdisciplinary research interests include Southern cultures, gender, food studies in the humanities, feminist theories, Appalachian studies, public humanities, oral history practices, and the intersections of race, class, and gender in American literature and society.
 

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